The Roof of the World: Tales of the Dalai Lama

November, 2024

Imagine waking up each morning surrounded by the tallest and fiercest mountains in the world. The air so fresh and the mountain silhouettes span for miles around you. Nature is your backyard and your home is peacefully perched among the hills. This is how they once described life in Tibet, a Himalayan paradise looming between the world’s largest mountains, on the “Roof of the World.” 

How does it feel to be perched that high? I try to imagine what waking up on the "roof of the word" must be like. 

Growing up in the suburbs of New Jersey, I was never met with such powerful and looming mountains. The “roof of my world” was the physical structure over our lovely brown brick house, my safe haven, grounding and the home of my memories for 18 years. But now that I am older, I am realizing that the “roof of my world” is no longer physical, it is ever changing. It changes and morphs with me as I move through the world. 

During our trip to India we had the opportunity to spend time in Mcleod Ganj, home of the 14th Dalai Lama since he fled from the Roof of the World (Tibet) 65 years ago. Tragically, due to Chinese invasion in 1959, the Dalai Lama and many of his followers were forced to flee their homes in Tibet and seek refuge where they now reside in India. 

From the moment we arrived in Mcleod Ganj, nestled into a different Himalayan mountain range, there was something incredibly special about this place. Surrounded by mountains and living among hundreds of devoted Buddhist monks, the Dalai Lama has created a “little Tibet” within India and the spiritual and cultural influences of Tibet are palpable. A little glimmer into what life was once like on the glorious “Roof of the World”. 

It’s funny, growing up I heard the name “Dalai Lama” so many times, but I really didn’t understand. Was the Dalai a person, a god, a figurative spirit? Was he real or some spiritual myth? But when I was 21 years old, we were honored to welcome the 14th Dalai Lama to my University to give a lecture about peace. He was a real, in the flesh being! It was not mandatory to attend but I chose to join his lecture and sat in an auditorium filled with thousands of other students. I remember that he was very charismatic and made us laugh during his lecture but honestly, back then I didn’t care about his teachings or truly understand any of its significance. Today I have learnt of the journey, hardships and sacrifices that the Dalai Lama underwent for his people and I would kill to have the opportunity to hear him lecture again.

12 years later, upon arriving in McLeod Ganj, a more curious Gabby felt ready to learn more. Being such a fascinating figure, the more I dug into the history of the Dalai Lama the more interested I became. My book of choice during our time in India became “Seven Years in Tibet”, an extraordinary tale of Heinrich Harrer, an Austrian mountaineer and adventurer, who wrote about his experiences living in Tibet in the 1940s- 1950s when it was a completely closed country. Back then, in order to limit foreign influence and maintain autonomy of the region, Tibet was heavily restricted to outsiders. Through immense perseverance and some luck, Heinrich Harrer had the remarkable opportunity to trek through the forbidden country and become part of the Tibetan people for 7 years (!), eventually becoming the English tutor of the 14th Dali Lama himself. He is one of the few people in the world who had a unique and intimate glimpse into the “living god’s” childhood before they had to flee from Tibet. 

Surrounded by the highest and fiercest mountains on earth, they called Tibet the “forbidden land on the roof of the world”. I love this description and try to imagine what waking up on the roof of the world must have felt like. Maybe this is what brought Buddhists to such a state of deep spirituality, meditating in the clouds on the roof of the world. Tibet was a forbidden country, closed to the rest of the world and the ruler of the state was none other than the living god reincarnated, the Dalai Lama. The people lived in peace, completely engulfed in Buddhist practice and Tibetan tradition, without any influence from outside societies. Missionaries, intellectuals, scientists and historians were all itching to get inside Tibet and experience a glimpse of the thousand-year-old culture and its mysteries, to no avail. 

From what I have gathered, the life of a living god is not an easy one. The 14th Dalai Lama was identified as the reincarnation of the 13th Dalai Lama when he was only 2 years old. Found within an impoverished and rural mountain village, his whole world changed immediately. Leaving his simple life behind, his family was taken to Lhasa (the capital of Tibet) so that the young god could start his studies in preparation for leading the people of Tibet. His studies were rigorous and the young boy was not allowed to move freely, play with other kids, explore his city or leave the compound outside of his studies. Chosen into a lonely life, the young Dalai Lama had a big responsibility to uphold and could not be distracted from it. 

Once old enough, the Dalai Lama led from the capital city of Lhasa; a spiritual and bustling city of religion, arts, culture and a myriad of Tibetan traditions. Once China invaded, everything changed. Sadly, today only 2% of the Lhasa of the past remains, it has become a Chinese city after decades of destruction and eradication of the Tibetan culture. Still, for the past 65 years, the Dalai Lama has continuously and fiercely advocated for the return of his people to their land, always taking a non-violence approach and emphasizing compassion through his global messaging of peace. Promoting understanding between different faiths across the world, today he is one of the most significant spiritual leaders on a global scale. Much has been lost, but the sentiment of Tibet still stands strong, the "rooftop of the world" will always remain sacred and even China cannot destroy the highest mountains of the world.

As we explored the streets of McLeod Ganj, up and around the hills and dips of many Tibetan’s homes, it was clear that the essence of the Buddhist mountain life still remains. Though more modernized today, we spent days surrounded by monks on the streets, in the cafes, restaurants and around the mountain with AirPods in their ears and smart phones in their hands, scrolling like the rest of us. Still, the mountain magic remained and a meditative spirit was palpable all around us. Though no longer a closed society and no longer perched on the “roof of the world,” they continue to adapt and a new roof has been created to house the spirituality, lifestyle and vibrant traditions. 

Perhaps we don't need to be perched on the highest plateau to reach the"roof of our worlds". Be your surroundings larger than life or sweet and quaint, you are the one that creates your own grounding, your own anchor and essentially, the roof that holds your world.